Using a Tripod — How Good Sticks Help Create Images
For many photographers, a tripod is more of an inconvenience; something else to lug around and carry that is never used. Often it is relegated to the closet filled with gadgets seldom used. Most of the time people tend to ‘run and gun’ or ‘skoot and shoot’ with their photography. They have their cameras in hand and frame up the shot and snap away. While I’ve done this from time to time, there are certain situations in which a tripod is more than an aid, it is an absolute necessity.
On the other hand, you have photographers who spend hundreds of dollars on a good pair of sticks, who have multiple tripods, and use them often. It makes one wonder who is right and who is wrong. You begin to ask questions about if tripods are worth the money or just another in a long list of gadgets, gizmos, and extras that photographers simply cannot help but buy.
The truth of the matter is that tripods are simply another tool to be used in creating images. Cost is not as important as quality and application during use. If you push yourself in your photography, then you will eventually come across a situation in which a tripod will help (at the least) or be the key (at most) to being able to create an inspiring image.
Here are some ways in which a tripod will help you in your mission of creating images.
Self Portraits
Most photographers, at some point, tackle the self portrait. While some might tell you that you can use any stable support (and they’d be right), a tripod is easier and much more stable (safe) for your camera. If you are willing to trust your $2,500 camera’s safety and security to a cardboard box and a bag of rice, then more power to you.
Blur
When using extremely slow (and fast) shutter speeds, you will likely need a tripod to create the image you have in mind. Whether your goal is to create motion blur or to eliminate blur, a tripod is (or should be) part of the equation. Low shutter speeds need a rock solid and steady camera in order to keep images sharp. The best solution is a good solid steady tripod.
When trying to create motion blur through panning, unless you want wavy blur lines, you need a tripod to keep things level and straight. Motion blurs work best when done this way. The tell tale twisting of light trails is one way to detect a lack of a steady foundation for your camera.
Extreme Zoom and Macro Shots
Picture yourself with a large lens, something in the range of 600mm or larger. Now picture trying to use this lens without a tripod to capture a decent close up at distance…a car, a cyclist, a soaring bird…can you picture the shake in your camera after about 30 seconds of trying to get good framing? Can you feel the ache in your arms, neck, and back after a day filled with holding three pounds up to your head and trying to keep it nearly motionless? Can you picture the blurred shots, the bad framing, and the soft focus in the photos with this session? If you can, then you are beginning to see the reason for having a tripod handy when you are using anything much bigger than 300mm (telephoto, zoom, or prime).
Macro photography has the same problems…just in reverse. It is difficult to get the right framing, lighting, focus, sharpness, and timing when you are filling the frame with a honeybee’s leg hairs. A tripod can easily adjust up and down, tilt, and angle without moving the physical position of the legs. This can make or break your efforts in creating a wonderfully striking macro image.
Bracketing and Compositing
If you are familiar at all with HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) or Composite photos, then you should already be aware of the necessity of a tripod. When tackling HDRI shots, you need to shoot multiple shots from the exact same location with different settings in the camera. Taking bracketed shots like this and then using software to ‘stitch’ them together with the appropriate treatments is par for the course in HDRI shots. If you have anything more than very slight movements in the framing, the difficulty of making the shot work is exponentially increased. Shooting from a steady tripod with a remote is HDRI 101.
The same thing holds true when shooting a shot designed for a composite. Image having a model against a brick wall and taking multiple shots with the model in different locations along the wall. The intent to make it appear as if the model is in many locations at one time in the final image is dependent upon the background in each image being identical. If you try to achieve this holding the camera by hand, you will either have to be very very steady, or very very lucky. Using a tripod in this situation is a necessity not a convenience.
Portrait Sessions
Many photographers never use a tripod in a portrait session and produce wonderful images. However, in many cases, especially when there are multiple persons in the frame, a tripod can be a Godsend. This is especially true when posing the group one at a time and then checking through the viewfinder to make sure the composition is correct. If you try to do this from a handheld perspective, you will find the image constantly changing.
In some cases, like with little children, a tripod will help you interact with the people in front of the camera to help them relax during the portrait session. Having a tripod and remote shutter release are almost essential in this kind of situation. You can talk with the subject, smile, and set them at ease without having to do so with a camera ‘growing’ out of your face.
Overall, a tripod is a useful tool you should have in your toolkit. Take some time, look over the possibilities, and find one that fits your budget and your needs. There are many on the market and some are better than others are in terms of quality and affordability. When you start using your ‘sticks’ you will notice many new avenues opening to your creative medium of choice and you’ll be a better photographer for the experience and knowledge you gain.
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Trackback URL | Comments RSS Feeddon’t worry, we can fix it in post…………
Not everything is fixable
I’ve actually had good HDR results with a handheld camera using autobracking on the 5D markII. It surprised me too, but apparently some HDR programs allow for some camera shake, or I just got lucky. This was using Adobe/CS5/Bridge Under Tools/Photoshop/Merge to HDR Pro.
…and using a Canon Image Stabilized 24-105mm lens, in some cases, and a Zeiss 18mm non-image stabilized prime with others. Remember, a wide angle lens reduces camera shake just by demagnifying any movement.
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Sahar aghayari